With the dew still on the lush greenery of Jamaica’s rural countryside and the sun rising slowly, warming the Tuesday morning skyline, the Go-Jamaica team, Kerry-Ann Bercher and Peter Abrikian, began a very fulfilling and eventful day going Roun’ St. Ann.

Our first stop was the famous Faith’s Pen, one of the main stops in St. Ann for tasty traditional fast food. You can get four ‘festivals’ for $100, a hot cup of soup for $100 and tasty fried fish for $350.

We had not even parked yet when several male vendors rushed to the car shouting, “Good morning! Good morning! Any roast yam? Any fry fish? Any jerk chicken?” We looked at each other in surprise and then laughed. “We’re from the Gleaner and we just want to feature some vendors here and learn a little about Faiths Pen.” Their expressions changed immediately. Disappointed, they went back to their stalls. One man lingered saying, “So you really naah buy nothing from me? No breadfruit? No ackee and saltfish?… ai sah.”

We made our way to our first stall – ‘John Bull Cow Cod Soup’. There we were met by a ‘drum pan’ grill with mouthwatering fried breadfruit, fried fish and jerk chicken. ‘Miss Toots’ was more than willing to talk to us about how long she had been selling in Faith’s Pen. She also told us about the late John Bull and his legendary Cow Cod Soup.

While stirring and adding the ingredients to a huge pot of Cow Cod Soup, she expressed concern on behalf of herself and fellow vendors about the Government’s decision three years ago to relocate them and the negative effect it has on their livelihood.

“A Gleaner unu come from?!” exclaimed ‘Number 1’, the chef at Cherry’s One Stop. He approached us with his cook fork and apron on. He laid the fork on the table and greeted us warmly. “So unu come feature we today? We open from 4 a.m. straight back till we say whenA me cook the best jerk chicken, fry fish and bammy, curry goat, tripe and bean, corn soup…roun’ here you know?!” he said smiling.

A woman could be seen thoroughly enjoying a mean plate of roast breadfruit and ackee and saltfish – piping hot, straight from the pot at Cherry’s One Stop After finishing her scrumptious meal, she told us a little about ‘Cherry’, her aunt, who had been selling there for a number of years.

Before ending our visit to Faith’s Pen, we met a very unusual man. He had piercings in his eyebrows, lips and ears – 14 of which were of copper wire. There was evidence of other piercings too as there we holes in his nose bridge and nostrils. In all, he had 26 visible piercings in his face which he did himself.

“Good day sir! You look like a very interesting character. Would you mind if we talk with you and take a few pictures?” said Peter. The strange man just sat and looked at us blankly. After a minute or two passed, he said “You can gwaan take your pictures dem, but I can’t talk about it”, he said. “Ok. Thanks”, said Peter.

With a look of bewilderment on our faces, we made our way out and continued going ‘Roun’ Jamaica’.

'The Green Pond'

The Pimento Porch Clubhouse was our first stop. With our complimentary drink in hand, we went in, feasting our eyes on the well-kept specimens of how life was back in the 1960s. The old cold stove and the dry coconut brought back memories for some of us… (I think).

Seasonings used at the Spice Making Hut at Walkerswood, St. Ann, Jamaica.

The Spice Making Hut was our next stop…  There we were given samples of ingredients that Walkerswood use to make their chutneys, sauces, marinades and pepper. While my colleague Peter took pictures, I tried to make a little creation of my own with pepper, pimento seeds, thyme a little escallion and some other ‘secret ingredients’. As I grounded them, the fresh, earthy and spicy aroma of the seasonings reminded me of my mother’s Sunday evening chicken. Yum!

The Spice Factory

Walkerswood is surrounded by a beautiful landscape, which is home to many varieties of herbs and spices. As we entered the factory where the Walkerswood products are made, our nostrils were filled with the earthy richness of their scents.

Go-Local Team Member. Kerry-Ann having a taste of the Walkerswood Sorrel Chutney.

Making our way upstairs we saw what looked like a stall. It even had the plaque that said, ‘OH LORD, HELP ME THIS DAY TO KEEP MY MOUTH SHUT’ and another, which sounded like a Bible verse, ‘…THERE THE FIRE GOETH OUT. SO WHERE THERE IS NO TALE BEARER, THE STRIVE CEASETH’. Some pretty strong words… We then realised that this was the moment we were waiting for – the Tasting Booth.

We were given two bags of cream crackers and three bottles of what looked like sauces and placed them on the table. Peter’s eyes were fixed on the bottle that read ‘Sorrel Chutney’. He helped himself to a generous amount on the cracker to taste. Let’s just say after the first bite, he could not get enough of it. The heavenly taste of the Coconut Rundown Sauce made me almost pinch myself. Not to mention the Calypso Chutney – simply delicious!

As you may have guessed Walkerswood has won many awards for its work, including the Gleaner’s Business Honour Award for its impact on the farming sector in central Jamaica.  It has also been recognised by the St Ann Chamber of Commerce for its contribution to the community.

A Little Walkerswood History

Tucked away in the hills of St Ann, Walkerswood Caribbean Foods has worked to bring a taste of the Caribbean to the world with an innovative line of traditional cooking sauces, spices, seasonings, preserves and canned vegetables.

In 1976, with the assistance of the Jamaica Industrial Developoment Corporation, Walkerswood Caribbean Foods embarked on its first project of ‘jerking’ pork which it sold to

Walkerswood products.

local bars. ‘Jerk’ pork was a firm local favourite and many villagers reared pigs in their back yard. Two persons were employed. The company’s objective was to ensure that everyone in the community who wanted to work could get a decent job. The village had been losing its young people to the urban lures of Kingston and Ocho Rios.

The company was incorporated in 1978. In the next years it added other products to its range and decided to bottle its Jerk

Walkerswood Coconut Run Down Sauce and Calypso Chutney.

Seasoning for sale in 1983 – realising the wide application of the seasoning with other dishes and the religious objections that many had to eating pork. Many letters from abroad started arriving requesting the seasoning. This led the company to be the first Jamaican Exporter of jerk seasoning from 1986. Since then, Walkerswood’s range of products has grown to over 20 and includes popular sauces such as Coconut Rundown, Escoveitch Pickle Sauce and the most recent addition in 2002, a feisty little pepper sauce called ‘Firestick’.

Source – www.foodreference.com
‘Ole Time T’ings’

Ole Time Tings: Ice Grinder.

Elements of Jamaica’s rich history were still alive and well at the Ole Time T’ings House at Walkerswood. “This is what they used to grind the ice in those times”, said Claudette as she told us about the ‘ole time’ ice grinder. The house was also home to molasses in a white rum bottle, a vintage sewing machine, a coconut brush and a coconut bough broom, which was used to shine the floor.  There was also a good old white pail. Claudette told us in the evening, a hole would be dug in the earth and the pail would be filled with water and placed in the hole. By morning, the water would be as cool as if it were coming straight from a refrigerator.

She also showed us some of the spices and plants grown on the property. These included Leaf of Life, escallion, sorrel, garlic, Dog Blood, pepper and many others. To our surprise, Peter picked a Leaf of Life and ate it raw. “It tastes like Jamaican green cherries!” he exclaimed. “I’ll pass on that one”, I said. Claudette chuckled.

'Flame of the Forest'

On our way back to the car, I asked about a beautiful flower I had seen near the Spice Making Hut.  I was drawn to it by its colour – bright red petals with gold tips. That flower is called the ‘Flame of the Forest’ and  it has its origins in India we were told.  According to our guide it is said in India if a young man should “enjoy” his female partner under this flora, she would not get pregnant. Hmmmmmm.

I also enquired about a bed of leaves that seemed to be perfectly joined together. “It’s actually a pond”, said Claudette. I just stood there, astonished at how seamlessly the leaves covered every inch of the body of water. Hardly giving evidence of what might be lying underneath. Truly amazing!

If you would like to enjoy the wonders of Walkerswood, call 917-2318, or fax 917-2648.
Tours are conducted on weekday and are 45 minutes long.

Yummy yummy fish in my tummy. I can’t remember the rest of the song, but if you know it, you’ll know that it’s a jolly one. And songs are apt at this appetizing restaurant. For not only have the likes of The Rolling Stones (much, much better songs!) and Michael Bolton eaten here, but on Friday and Saturday they have live Salsa dancing at Evitas, with a red-hot Jamaican twist. Built in an old ginger-bread house, this Italian restaurant is perched half-way up a hill, overlooking the twinkling views of Ocho Rios. It’s full of Italian nick-nacks, antiques and colourful local wood carvings. Beautiful as you can see:

But anyway, back to the food. Lipsmackingly good. There’s a massive range of Italian treats and many have a Jamaican twist (why not try the veggie ‘Lasagne for Rastafari’ – with aki and calaloo). Feast your eyes on Red Snapper Escoveitch and Mango Cheesecake below. No more words:

Ok, a few more words actually – my only complaint would be that the night we went they played that cheesy keyboard music ‘that tourists like’ (although I have rarely met any that do). (I wondered what Keith Richards of the Rolling Stones would have made of it?!). Still, the food, the ambient soft red and yellow lighting, and THE FOOD was distraction enough and I soon forgot all about it. The evening was topped-off with a flaming rum coffee – topped with cream. And Evita’s warm hospitality as she wandered tirelessly from table to table making sure that the whole house had a tasty time.

Evita came to Jamaica from Venice – and set-up her restaurant in the hills of Ocho Rios over 20 years ago. In the thick of the tourist season you are probably best to give her a call in advance and make a reservation before you climb the hill – as I’m sure they’ll be packed to the brim for dinner. Especially if these guys are eating here again:

Weekend salsa starts at around 11.30pm, it’s open to all and in true flamboyant Mediterranean style is open to all very late. Other famous guests from abroad (there is a proud gallery on one wall) include Anthony Hopkins and Princess Margaret. But go to Evita’s above all for the star studded food.

Easy to find: Look out for this sign below, pointing up the leafy hill, as you drive along the main road through Ocho Rios.
Evita’s Telephone Number: 876-974-2333
Evita’s Email: info@evitasjamaica.com
Evita’s restaurant official website: http://www.evitasjamaica.com/

Review and Photographs by Oliver Wright / digitoli.com