Waterproof camera? Check. Life-jacket? Check. Sunglasses (for looking like Miami Vice)? Check. Safety procedure. Check? Ignition key? Check. Snorkle mask, flippers and breathing tube? WHAT?! Yes, yet again, Chukka puts the icing on the cake and adds under-water excavation to what would already be a fun-and-fuel-packed half day out. Our safari team zooped and swashplooshed (soon to be in the dictionary, or on Wikipedia if nothing else) up and down it’s own white-watery-wake, burning past tropical forrest and then way out towards the horizon.

My waterproof camera (these are great – get one by clicking here) is still a little fuzzy from the aftermath of the watery foam from the swashploosh – so please forgive the slightly blurry photo-report below while you enjoy the sights and smiles – and the Miami Vice style showing-off!

After whizzing along the coast and getting the hang of the speedboats, you are taken way out to sea for the snorkling. There is a multitude of fish, shell fish and marine vegetables to be viewed during the underwater tour but unfortunately we had to miss this part of the adventure – so we could squeeze in some all terrain vehicling and horsing around! I’d love to go back to do the whole sea safari one day – and I hope to see y’all there. On a practical note, you should aim to do a maximum of two of Chukka’s tours in one day – and make it a long one so you can enjoy their Jerk burger, chicken and pork feasts for lunch and supper.

For full information on each of the Chukka Tours please visit their official website by clicking here
All local hotels, as well as Sandals, have a Chukka rep – so rest assured you won’t be able to miss-out.
Contact info:
Phone: (876) 953-5619
Fax: (876) 953-5740
Email: montegobay@chukkacaribbean.com

Make sure you come back to www.go-jamaica.com/roundjamaica to catch Jermaine’s amazing video reviews!

Text and Photography by Oliver Wright.

Yummy yummy fish in my tummy. I can’t remember the rest of the song, but if you know it, you’ll know that it’s a jolly one. And songs are apt at this appetizing restaurant. For not only have the likes of The Rolling Stones (much, much better songs!) and Michael Bolton eaten here, but on Friday and Saturday they have live Salsa dancing at Evitas, with a red-hot Jamaican twist. Built in an old ginger-bread house, this Italian restaurant is perched half-way up a hill, overlooking the twinkling views of Ocho Rios. It’s full of Italian nick-nacks, antiques and colourful local wood carvings. Beautiful as you can see:

But anyway, back to the food. Lipsmackingly good. There’s a massive range of Italian treats and many have a Jamaican twist (why not try the veggie ‘Lasagne for Rastafari’ – with aki and calaloo). Feast your eyes on Red Snapper Escoveitch and Mango Cheesecake below. No more words:

Ok, a few more words actually – my only complaint would be that the night we went they played that cheesy keyboard music ‘that tourists like’ (although I have rarely met any that do). (I wondered what Keith Richards of the Rolling Stones would have made of it?!). Still, the food, the ambient soft red and yellow lighting, and THE FOOD was distraction enough and I soon forgot all about it. The evening was topped-off with a flaming rum coffee – topped with cream. And Evita’s warm hospitality as she wandered tirelessly from table to table making sure that the whole house had a tasty time.

Evita came to Jamaica from Venice – and set-up her restaurant in the hills of Ocho Rios over 20 years ago. In the thick of the tourist season you are probably best to give her a call in advance and make a reservation before you climb the hill – as I’m sure they’ll be packed to the brim for dinner. Especially if these guys are eating here again:

Weekend salsa starts at around 11.30pm, it’s open to all and in true flamboyant Mediterranean style is open to all very late. Other famous guests from abroad (there is a proud gallery on one wall) include Anthony Hopkins and Princess Margaret. But go to Evita’s above all for the star studded food.

Easy to find: Look out for this sign below, pointing up the leafy hill, as you drive along the main road through Ocho Rios.
Evita’s Telephone Number: 876-974-2333
Evita’s Email: info@evitasjamaica.com
Evita’s restaurant official website: http://www.evitasjamaica.com/

Review and Photographs by Oliver Wright / digitoli.com

Now, I am allergic to horses. It might have something to do with having been kicked-across a field by a stallion at the age of four. And subsequently breaking my right arm. Or perhaps it has something to do with falling off an old nag, only to have it temporarily paralyze my left arm by standing on my funny bone when it stood up (NOT funny, I assure you). Or maybe it’s from the 14 hour trek on a wooden saddle through the mounds of Mongolia with only salted yak butter tea to drink. Which paralyzed my butt and my gut. BUT – these horses were so adorable that I forgave them for making me sneeze and itchy-scratchy and got up close to bring you their friendly faces:

After horsing around with the camera and gee-gees I sped off in an All Terrain Vehicle (see link to blog entry on the right of this page) Jermaine however, pictured below with video camera in hand, took up the challenge and went horse-riding for the first time (I spared him my off-putting tales, instead saving them for you, lucky reader!)

After he cantered up the rocky and muddy hills and galloped along the grass the horses lept refreshingly through the sea up to their waste in water. With all riders still on their backs. Jermaine will be posting video footage some-time soon. It’s crazy crazy, so make sure you keep checking back at this site to catch it. Or better still – come to Chukka yourself. I’m sure it won’t be the first and last time that Jermaine does this trek. And it looks good enough that I think one day I might just put my sneezing behind me and go too…

Price: Around $US 75
In case you were wondering: Suitable for all ages and riding skills
Visit the Chukka website to make an advanced booking: www.chukkacaribbean.com
Or call their hotline: Mobay/Negril area Tel: (876) 953-5619 Ocho Rios area Tel: (876) 972-2506

Text by Oliver Wright. Photography by Oliver Wright. Horseriding by Jermaine Evans.

An old colonial town. Or is it? Well… yes, of course it was. And today it houses modern day Jamaica. But the buildings deceive. Not in an ominous treacherous sense, as the pirates who once mored these shores would have had you believe as they dealt their counterfeit pieces of eight – but in a beautiful celebratory deceptive sense. You see, these buildings, pictured above and below, and complete with hanging window frame (thanks for that – it really made my picture) are in fact a mere 12 years old. Built (or commissioned) by a German company (unfortunately I only stopped here long enough to get directions to the nearby ‘Nonsuch Caves’, so I know little more) the interiors of these rooms are brand-spanking-new. As the giveaway air-conditioner on the left of the picture below, gives away.

I rather liked the modern day call to ‘Bingo’ hanging from this one above.

Bars as well as bingo abound in this town – so if you are interested in the history of rum as well as roofs, this could also be place for you. But beware of local “over-proof” or “downside” rum – as it might lead you into further confusion.

The Tale of Nonsuch Caves
Sounds like it might be interesting doesn’t it. Well, for us, on the day we ventured there, it wasn’t. Just up the road and the hill from this town are the delightful Nonsuch Caves. Alas on this particular afternoon we were unable to discover their delights. As we stopped for final directions at this (telling) gate, we were informed that at this time of late afternoon they were in fact:

And so, Nonsuch Caves remained as such for us. Another time, I hope. To make sure that you don’t miss their deep delights….click here for more information.

Instead of the caves we were treated to a private view from two local artists, perched high into the hills on the left as you wind your way to the caves. They sat peacefully at their easels, busily easing their way around a variety of pots to blend and create natures’ colours. Peacefully that was until I set the car alarm off getting my camera from the boot. I am learning (in addition to car alarm control) that it is important to keep your eyes well tuned-in to the surrounding jungle as you travel around Jamaica… the thickly nourished flanks to the road hide many pleasant surprises.

Keep your eye on this blog – an interview of the artist is to follow from Jermaine.

We spent the night at Goblin Hill. Now, I didn’t spot any goblins (or gremlin’s as one of their signs suggests) but the collection of luxury villas on offer here are surely a delightful retreat after a day up and down the windy roads from Kingston to Portland.

And there is something a wee bit Middlearth / Tolkein-esque about the views. During the day, this resort is a great leafy haven of lawned tranquility featuring palm-strewn views looking down onto the bay and beach. There is a refreshing, small, pool surrounded by quaint white wooden screens and garden furniture that harks back to colonial times. Beach lovers won’t be disappointed either as Frenchman’s cove and San San beach sit in the near proximity (click here for info).

During the evening the atmospheric outside bar comes to life. It is tucked neatly-into the surrounding bush, with an accompanying symphony of crickets and a chorus of croaking of frogs.

All villas are self catering, as well as offering a personal cook if required. Bring your own tea-bags and Blue Mountain Coffee for a morning brew. For a breakdown of prices visit the Goblin Hill website, by clicking here.

Kindly note: Do bring mosquito repellant.

Boston Bay is possibly the best place to sample all things Jerk in Jamaica and is also home to the island’s scrumptious “Jerk-Fest”, held on the 1st Sunday of July every year. Tonight I met David and Glen, the proud owners of Little David’s Jerk Centre. They have every right to be proud as their charcoal craft and concoction of spice and herbs has brought them the fortune of being awarded the accolade “Jamaica’s second-best jerk restaurant, 2007″. I couldn’t find the first-best restaurant, perhaps they had packed-up-profitably for the night to rest on their chargrilled laurels, and scotch-bonnet peppers of course.

And so, here it is…The 2nd Best Jerk Sauce In The World. EVER!..

Ho’ ho’ hot and a bottle of rum:

Rice and peas plus a heavy handful of veggies make for a delicious and honest homemade plate:

Price: On request, dependent on weight and varying from jerk stall to jerk stall. Bargain on a few hundred dollars, plus extra for sides, for a decent dish.

Ingredients: If you fancy making some of your own jerk seasoning, there’s a dozen or so suggested ingredients below to give you an idea of what you will need. I pressed David and Glen to give me the full list from their winning recipe…but every stall has it’s own secrets, of course…

allspice berries
brown sugar
cinnamon
cloves
garlic
ginger
nutmeg
onion
black pepper
salt
soy sauce
scallions
thyme
And Scotch Bonnet Peppers.

How to get there: Click here for google map…

Words and photographs by Oliver Wright.

Ian Flemming is famed to have dreamed-up 007 from this place. But the present day ‘reception’ on Navy Island looks a million miles away from the tidy scenes of Moneypenny’s office and Q’s futuristic armory. Moonraker? Well….the landing dock here today needs a pretty good rake of the old-fashioned horticultural kind- and that’s being kind. Having said that, it is a million times all the better for it. The ram-shackled, broken, abandoned rooms, shutters and stairwells hang heavy with atmosphere and it isn’t long before you are trying to grasp the ghost of Flemming’s inspiration from the same air. I often find it appealing to visit somewhere in the world that has spawned a global icon and the setting here did not disappoint – it’s as if the debris you find has lived multiple aftermaths of Bond’s battles.

Technically you are no longer ‘allowed’ on the island today, as it is private property and not open to the public. With this in mind we stayed only a few minutes – but could not resist taking a few snaps…(sorry)…at each move anticipating Jaws, or some other Odd Ball, to emerge in scuba gear from the surrounding waters.

Select scenes feature, and video footage below:

How to get there?

Island of Bond from ashore. Quaint.

Murals from a bygone era:

There’s something fishy going on here:

Atmospheric sight, through blinds:

Where is this? Show me on a map…

Intrigued? Want more? Watch the video!…

Article and photographs by Oliver Wright. Video by Jermaine Evans.