I went to Martha Brae 21 years ago on my last visit to Jamaica. It hadn’t changed at all. Which was good. A lot of bamboo had been grown and felled though since then I am sure…nature’s quickest growing ‘tree’ the stuff is everywhere along the side of the river and the many colours of its’ bark glistened in the moist atmosphere all around.

Our raftsman, singing songs of a bygone era:

This is a very tranquil trip. You glide slowly down the river for three miles – probably taking around 45 minutes in all. The rafters sing songs, recite poetry and enchant you with old African and Jamaican fables. And if you are lucky a bright souvenir seller might jump of his bicycle and run through the trees, as I pictured below:

We caught a lift back up the river to our car with the rafters. As we bumped along in the back of their truck as it pulled the rafts behind us, I hoped that I’d be back in another 21 years. Time stands still in this place – perhaps it has something to do with the echo of the rafter’s fables as they bounce around the bamboo forrest.

Handmade rafts:

Souvenir handmade rafts:

Light fantastic:

Note: This is not a trip for the adrenalin junkies. Although it’s perfect for adrenalin junkies looking for some downtime…

…or a complimentary glass of refreshing rum punch!


For reservations…
Tel: (876) 940-6398 / 940-7018 / 952-0889
E-Mail: info@jamaicarafting.com
For a little intro to the legend of Martha Brae from their official website, click here >>>
Photogallery: Click here to see more pics

Now, if you’re the type (like me) that likes to sit with nature and contemplate the grandeur of the Earth, the passing of the day that has gone and the days that are to come – there are many tranquil natural spots along the Negril coastline to enjoy this shining view. But if you are the type (like me again!) that wants to listen to some good music, surround yourself with friends and cocktails after leaping into the turquoise sea from the top of a cliff – then head to Rik’s Cafe.

Splosh:

Beware, it is extremely touristy (so much so that the tourists even ‘take-on’ the locals at cliff jumping. I watched as one tourist crowd tired of waiting for some kids to jump from a particularly high point, for the sum of two US dollars, and just jumped themselves screaming “this height is nothing!!”). It’s a little over the top (no pun intended) but the drinks are good and the food is tasty and they certainly have a very excellent view out to the sun. As well as a swimming pool. And shady gazebos. And waiter service throughout. And you can party into the night.

If I were to be mean, I’d say it’s a small slice of Cancun in Jamaica. If you know what I mean by that you might stay away. But having said that – some of my best nights have been in Cancun! You could always decide for yourself over a Red Stripe and the red sun…

Official Website: Click me!

Yummy yummy fish in my tummy. I can’t remember the rest of the song, but if you know it, you’ll know that it’s a jolly one. And songs are apt at this appetizing restaurant. For not only have the likes of The Rolling Stones (much, much better songs!) and Michael Bolton eaten here, but on Friday and Saturday they have live Salsa dancing at Evitas, with a red-hot Jamaican twist. Built in an old ginger-bread house, this Italian restaurant is perched half-way up a hill, overlooking the twinkling views of Ocho Rios. It’s full of Italian nick-nacks, antiques and colourful local wood carvings. Beautiful as you can see:

But anyway, back to the food. Lipsmackingly good. There’s a massive range of Italian treats and many have a Jamaican twist (why not try the veggie ‘Lasagne for Rastafari’ – with aki and calaloo). Feast your eyes on Red Snapper Escoveitch and Mango Cheesecake below. No more words:

Ok, a few more words actually – my only complaint would be that the night we went they played that cheesy keyboard music ‘that tourists like’ (although I have rarely met any that do). (I wondered what Keith Richards of the Rolling Stones would have made of it?!). Still, the food, the ambient soft red and yellow lighting, and THE FOOD was distraction enough and I soon forgot all about it. The evening was topped-off with a flaming rum coffee – topped with cream. And Evita’s warm hospitality as she wandered tirelessly from table to table making sure that the whole house had a tasty time.

Evita came to Jamaica from Venice – and set-up her restaurant in the hills of Ocho Rios over 20 years ago. In the thick of the tourist season you are probably best to give her a call in advance and make a reservation before you climb the hill – as I’m sure they’ll be packed to the brim for dinner. Especially if these guys are eating here again:

Weekend salsa starts at around 11.30pm, it’s open to all and in true flamboyant Mediterranean style is open to all very late. Other famous guests from abroad (there is a proud gallery on one wall) include Anthony Hopkins and Princess Margaret. But go to Evita’s above all for the star studded food.

Easy to find: Look out for this sign below, pointing up the leafy hill, as you drive along the main road through Ocho Rios.
Evita’s Telephone Number: 876-974-2333
Evita’s Email: info@evitasjamaica.com
Evita’s restaurant official website: http://www.evitasjamaica.com/

Review and Photographs by Oliver Wright / digitoli.com

Boston Bay is possibly the best place to sample all things Jerk in Jamaica and is also home to the island’s scrumptious “Jerk-Fest”, held on the 1st Sunday of July every year. Tonight I met David and Glen, the proud owners of Little David’s Jerk Centre. They have every right to be proud as their charcoal craft and concoction of spice and herbs has brought them the fortune of being awarded the accolade “Jamaica’s second-best jerk restaurant, 2007″. I couldn’t find the first-best restaurant, perhaps they had packed-up-profitably for the night to rest on their chargrilled laurels, and scotch-bonnet peppers of course.

And so, here it is…The 2nd Best Jerk Sauce In The World. EVER!..

Ho’ ho’ hot and a bottle of rum:

Rice and peas plus a heavy handful of veggies make for a delicious and honest homemade plate:

Price: On request, dependent on weight and varying from jerk stall to jerk stall. Bargain on a few hundred dollars, plus extra for sides, for a decent dish.

Ingredients: If you fancy making some of your own jerk seasoning, there’s a dozen or so suggested ingredients below to give you an idea of what you will need. I pressed David and Glen to give me the full list from their winning recipe…but every stall has it’s own secrets, of course…

allspice berries
brown sugar
cinnamon
cloves
garlic
ginger
nutmeg
onion
black pepper
salt
soy sauce
scallions
thyme
And Scotch Bonnet Peppers.

How to get there: Click here for google map…

Words and photographs by Oliver Wright.