With the dew still on the lush greenery of Jamaica’s rural countryside and the sun rising slowly, warming the Tuesday morning skyline, the Go-Jamaica team, Kerry-Ann Bercher and Peter Abrikian, began a very fulfilling and eventful day going Roun’ St. Ann.

Our first stop was the famous Faith’s Pen, one of the main stops in St. Ann for tasty traditional fast food. You can get four ‘festivals’ for $100, a hot cup of soup for $100 and tasty fried fish for $350.

We had not even parked yet when several male vendors rushed to the car shouting, “Good morning! Good morning! Any roast yam? Any fry fish? Any jerk chicken?” We looked at each other in surprise and then laughed. “We’re from the Gleaner and we just want to feature some vendors here and learn a little about Faiths Pen.” Their expressions changed immediately. Disappointed, they went back to their stalls. One man lingered saying, “So you really naah buy nothing from me? No breadfruit? No ackee and saltfish?… ai sah.”

We made our way to our first stall – ‘John Bull Cow Cod Soup’. There we were met by a ‘drum pan’ grill with mouthwatering fried breadfruit, fried fish and jerk chicken. ‘Miss Toots’ was more than willing to talk to us about how long she had been selling in Faith’s Pen. She also told us about the late John Bull and his legendary Cow Cod Soup.

While stirring and adding the ingredients to a huge pot of Cow Cod Soup, she expressed concern on behalf of herself and fellow vendors about the Government’s decision three years ago to relocate them and the negative effect it has on their livelihood.

“A Gleaner unu come from?!” exclaimed ‘Number 1’, the chef at Cherry’s One Stop. He approached us with his cook fork and apron on. He laid the fork on the table and greeted us warmly. “So unu come feature we today? We open from 4 a.m. straight back till we say whenA me cook the best jerk chicken, fry fish and bammy, curry goat, tripe and bean, corn soup…roun’ here you know?!” he said smiling.

A woman could be seen thoroughly enjoying a mean plate of roast breadfruit and ackee and saltfish – piping hot, straight from the pot at Cherry’s One Stop After finishing her scrumptious meal, she told us a little about ‘Cherry’, her aunt, who had been selling there for a number of years.

Before ending our visit to Faith’s Pen, we met a very unusual man. He had piercings in his eyebrows, lips and ears – 14 of which were of copper wire. There was evidence of other piercings too as there we holes in his nose bridge and nostrils. In all, he had 26 visible piercings in his face which he did himself.

“Good day sir! You look like a very interesting character. Would you mind if we talk with you and take a few pictures?” said Peter. The strange man just sat and looked at us blankly. After a minute or two passed, he said “You can gwaan take your pictures dem, but I can’t talk about it”, he said. “Ok. Thanks”, said Peter.

With a look of bewilderment on our faces, we made our way out and continued going ‘Roun’ Jamaica’.

'The Green Pond'

The Pimento Porch Clubhouse was our first stop. With our complimentary drink in hand, we went in, feasting our eyes on the well-kept specimens of how life was back in the 1960s. The old cold stove and the dry coconut brought back memories for some of us… (I think).

Seasonings used at the Spice Making Hut at Walkerswood, St. Ann, Jamaica.

The Spice Making Hut was our next stop…  There we were given samples of ingredients that Walkerswood use to make their chutneys, sauces, marinades and pepper. While my colleague Peter took pictures, I tried to make a little creation of my own with pepper, pimento seeds, thyme a little escallion and some other ‘secret ingredients’. As I grounded them, the fresh, earthy and spicy aroma of the seasonings reminded me of my mother’s Sunday evening chicken. Yum!

The Spice Factory

Walkerswood is surrounded by a beautiful landscape, which is home to many varieties of herbs and spices. As we entered the factory where the Walkerswood products are made, our nostrils were filled with the earthy richness of their scents.

Go-Local Team Member. Kerry-Ann having a taste of the Walkerswood Sorrel Chutney.

Making our way upstairs we saw what looked like a stall. It even had the plaque that said, ‘OH LORD, HELP ME THIS DAY TO KEEP MY MOUTH SHUT’ and another, which sounded like a Bible verse, ‘…THERE THE FIRE GOETH OUT. SO WHERE THERE IS NO TALE BEARER, THE STRIVE CEASETH’. Some pretty strong words… We then realised that this was the moment we were waiting for – the Tasting Booth.

We were given two bags of cream crackers and three bottles of what looked like sauces and placed them on the table. Peter’s eyes were fixed on the bottle that read ‘Sorrel Chutney’. He helped himself to a generous amount on the cracker to taste. Let’s just say after the first bite, he could not get enough of it. The heavenly taste of the Coconut Rundown Sauce made me almost pinch myself. Not to mention the Calypso Chutney – simply delicious!

As you may have guessed Walkerswood has won many awards for its work, including the Gleaner’s Business Honour Award for its impact on the farming sector in central Jamaica.  It has also been recognised by the St Ann Chamber of Commerce for its contribution to the community.

A Little Walkerswood History

Tucked away in the hills of St Ann, Walkerswood Caribbean Foods has worked to bring a taste of the Caribbean to the world with an innovative line of traditional cooking sauces, spices, seasonings, preserves and canned vegetables.

In 1976, with the assistance of the Jamaica Industrial Developoment Corporation, Walkerswood Caribbean Foods embarked on its first project of ‘jerking’ pork which it sold to

Walkerswood products.

local bars. ‘Jerk’ pork was a firm local favourite and many villagers reared pigs in their back yard. Two persons were employed. The company’s objective was to ensure that everyone in the community who wanted to work could get a decent job. The village had been losing its young people to the urban lures of Kingston and Ocho Rios.

The company was incorporated in 1978. In the next years it added other products to its range and decided to bottle its Jerk

Walkerswood Coconut Run Down Sauce and Calypso Chutney.

Seasoning for sale in 1983 – realising the wide application of the seasoning with other dishes and the religious objections that many had to eating pork. Many letters from abroad started arriving requesting the seasoning. This led the company to be the first Jamaican Exporter of jerk seasoning from 1986. Since then, Walkerswood’s range of products has grown to over 20 and includes popular sauces such as Coconut Rundown, Escoveitch Pickle Sauce and the most recent addition in 2002, a feisty little pepper sauce called ‘Firestick’.

Source – www.foodreference.com
‘Ole Time T’ings’

Ole Time Tings: Ice Grinder.

Elements of Jamaica’s rich history were still alive and well at the Ole Time T’ings House at Walkerswood. “This is what they used to grind the ice in those times”, said Claudette as she told us about the ‘ole time’ ice grinder. The house was also home to molasses in a white rum bottle, a vintage sewing machine, a coconut brush and a coconut bough broom, which was used to shine the floor.  There was also a good old white pail. Claudette told us in the evening, a hole would be dug in the earth and the pail would be filled with water and placed in the hole. By morning, the water would be as cool as if it were coming straight from a refrigerator.

She also showed us some of the spices and plants grown on the property. These included Leaf of Life, escallion, sorrel, garlic, Dog Blood, pepper and many others. To our surprise, Peter picked a Leaf of Life and ate it raw. “It tastes like Jamaican green cherries!” he exclaimed. “I’ll pass on that one”, I said. Claudette chuckled.

'Flame of the Forest'

On our way back to the car, I asked about a beautiful flower I had seen near the Spice Making Hut.  I was drawn to it by its colour – bright red petals with gold tips. That flower is called the ‘Flame of the Forest’ and  it has its origins in India we were told.  According to our guide it is said in India if a young man should “enjoy” his female partner under this flora, she would not get pregnant. Hmmmmmm.

I also enquired about a bed of leaves that seemed to be perfectly joined together. “It’s actually a pond”, said Claudette. I just stood there, astonished at how seamlessly the leaves covered every inch of the body of water. Hardly giving evidence of what might be lying underneath. Truly amazing!

If you would like to enjoy the wonders of Walkerswood, call 917-2318, or fax 917-2648.
Tours are conducted on weekday and are 45 minutes long.

I went to Martha Brae 21 years ago on my last visit to Jamaica. It hadn’t changed at all. Which was good. A lot of bamboo had been grown and felled though since then I am sure…nature’s quickest growing ‘tree’ the stuff is everywhere along the side of the river and the many colours of its’ bark glistened in the moist atmosphere all around.

Our raftsman, singing songs of a bygone era:

This is a very tranquil trip. You glide slowly down the river for three miles – probably taking around 45 minutes in all. The rafters sing songs, recite poetry and enchant you with old African and Jamaican fables. And if you are lucky a bright souvenir seller might jump of his bicycle and run through the trees, as I pictured below:

We caught a lift back up the river to our car with the rafters. As we bumped along in the back of their truck as it pulled the rafts behind us, I hoped that I’d be back in another 21 years. Time stands still in this place – perhaps it has something to do with the echo of the rafter’s fables as they bounce around the bamboo forrest.

Handmade rafts:

Souvenir handmade rafts:

Light fantastic:

Note: This is not a trip for the adrenalin junkies. Although it’s perfect for adrenalin junkies looking for some downtime…

…or a complimentary glass of refreshing rum punch!


For reservations…
Tel: (876) 940-6398 / 940-7018 / 952-0889
E-Mail: info@jamaicarafting.com
For a little intro to the legend of Martha Brae from their official website, click here >>>
Photogallery: Click here to see more pics

Location: Negril Spots, Near Little London.
How to get there: Get between Negril Spots & Little London and ask directions to “Jurassic Park” and “The dinosaur place”
Approximate Map: Click here to visit google maps

Located in the vacinity of Orange Hill, if you search hard enough, you will find the most unlikely of pets prehistoric. Pterodactyls to be precise. It wasn’t long ago that if you searched hard enough (or not so hard) in the hills surrounding Orange Hill you would find a different kind of colourful surprise hiding amongst the bushes. Marajuana to be precise. The police have since chopped down this inspirational (allegedly inspirational!) herb (illegal narcotic) and it is no longer to be found abounding – but a visit to the nearby Jurassic park might just leave you similarly inspired:

This wiered and wonderful collection of…I am at a loss to find the precise noun…let’s call it ‘garden furniture’ is all made by hand (and hand-held blow torch) on the premises of this small park. Ornaments range from the unexpected talons of dinosaurs and lurking comical figures through to the more practical 8ft candelabra and illuminating outdoor wall hangings:

The owner wasn’t around when we stopped-by, but his workers were extremely helpful in showing us how they crafted these grand designs – and quite rightfully, with great pride. Prices are available on request – but similar to some of the exhibits, aren’t for the feint hearted. But then again, why should they be – these lovingly re-created beasts are absolutely unique and if I had enough outside space at home I’d certainly want one to surprise peaking neighbours and entertain garden guests.

If you’re passing through this area it’s well worth a detour for half an hour or so – especially if you like surreal experimental travel.

There’s a small shop next door if you want a cooling drink. And more practical souvenirs for those travelling home from Jamaica by airplane (circa 40$ US).

Now I don’t want to be pinickety but I am going to be. Roaring river is hardly roaring. And that’s even after a few months of rain. I’d say it’s gushing laudably. The fast-paced flow spins through small bridges and mangroves, along fields and eventually down into the small colourfully-wooden-housed-village below. There was a deep green-blue hue to the water when I visited and this cooling sight along with the occasional spray were a refreshing treat as we walked up the hot forrest steps towards the caves. It was hard to resist the temptation to throw myself back down into the beckoning stream – especially as a few people were already sploshing around in the current. Nature lovers get ready – this is an idilic setting.

A garlic leaf. Identical in aroma to clove garlic:

OK, so the river didn’t roar – but the caves are definitely cavenous. Our friendly guide had spent the past decade or so taking people deep into the mouth of these rocks and he was well versed in explaining how boiling volcanic lava had met with the icy water to produce such intricate and windy passageways into the earth below. Our luck was in as on the day we arrived an almost omnipotent ray of sun streaked through the opening of the caves and onto the cave floor. I’ll say no more and let you see for yourselves:

I don’t know what it is about caves that bring out people’s imaginations, but in each of the caves I have been in I have always baffled to learn that “this 4000 year old stalactite in India looks like Ghandi” or that “These ancient granite formations in Nottingham resemble Robin Hood” and so on and so forth. It’s as if the natural beauty of geology and ‘the science bit’ that explains the uncanny creation of rocks and air pockets under the ground, from molten liquid at a temperature of 1000 degrees centigrade, isn’t enough. So I wasn’t surprised to see Bob Marley and The Lion of Judah appear like a mirage on almost every wall. Let me share the excitement with you:

I even started to get good at the apparition thing myself – and proudly pointed out this mangrove.

After a good half an hour under the earth I was kind-of missing the beating rays of the sun and the tropical heat above. On our way back we rushed up and down and even had to crouch limbo style (well, it is a national dance of Jamaica after all!) to get back through the passages we had blindly followed our guide along…and as we surfaced once more into the light we were welcomed with this rather apt shrine to the sun from the caged exit:

Enquiries and directions, call:(+1) 876-979-7987 OR 876-979-7988 for more information.
Please take note: There are lots of tour touts at the entrance. Make sure you get an official guide from the office.

The journey there:

Make sure you get your tickets & tour guide from the official complex…or bargain extremely hard! The official grounds look like this:

This place is enchanted. As the name of the beach suggests – it’s a treasure find. Sunsets from the pool as the waves crash just feet away. Your very own private Morrocan haveli perched on silver sand. Homemade delights from the gardenside, barside, poolside, terraceside restaurant. Rum punch to knock you out. Massages to pick you up. Genuinely welcoming staff, smiles and…an Apple Mac with web access! Did I mention the hand-crafted ceramics that bedeck the terrace floors and garden walls. Oh and wooden four poster beds? Self-catering kitchens. That you can help yourself to world music CDs. The list goes on and time stands still. Just go there.

Price range: A room at Jake’s will start at approximately US$ 95 for a room with garden…going up to US$ 800 for a private four bedroom cottage. Take me to the full price list…
Official website: Click here…
Guest photos: Let me see ‘em!
And don’t miss their partner restaurant opposite “Jack Spratt” – that is, if you can tear youself away from Jake’s ambience once you arrive. I must return one day….

Waterproof camera? Check. Life-jacket? Check. Sunglasses (for looking like Miami Vice)? Check. Safety procedure. Check? Ignition key? Check. Snorkle mask, flippers and breathing tube? WHAT?! Yes, yet again, Chukka puts the icing on the cake and adds under-water excavation to what would already be a fun-and-fuel-packed half day out. Our safari team zooped and swashplooshed (soon to be in the dictionary, or on Wikipedia if nothing else) up and down it’s own white-watery-wake, burning past tropical forrest and then way out towards the horizon.

My waterproof camera (these are great – get one by clicking here) is still a little fuzzy from the aftermath of the watery foam from the swashploosh – so please forgive the slightly blurry photo-report below while you enjoy the sights and smiles – and the Miami Vice style showing-off!

After whizzing along the coast and getting the hang of the speedboats, you are taken way out to sea for the snorkling. There is a multitude of fish, shell fish and marine vegetables to be viewed during the underwater tour but unfortunately we had to miss this part of the adventure – so we could squeeze in some all terrain vehicling and horsing around! I’d love to go back to do the whole sea safari one day – and I hope to see y’all there. On a practical note, you should aim to do a maximum of two of Chukka’s tours in one day – and make it a long one so you can enjoy their Jerk burger, chicken and pork feasts for lunch and supper.

For full information on each of the Chukka Tours please visit their official website by clicking here
All local hotels, as well as Sandals, have a Chukka rep – so rest assured you won’t be able to miss-out.
Contact info:
Phone: (876) 953-5619
Fax: (876) 953-5740
Email: montegobay@chukkacaribbean.com

Make sure you come back to www.go-jamaica.com/roundjamaica to catch Jermaine’s amazing video reviews!

Text and Photography by Oliver Wright.

Yummy yummy fish in my tummy. I can’t remember the rest of the song, but if you know it, you’ll know that it’s a jolly one. And songs are apt at this appetizing restaurant. For not only have the likes of The Rolling Stones (much, much better songs!) and Michael Bolton eaten here, but on Friday and Saturday they have live Salsa dancing at Evitas, with a red-hot Jamaican twist. Built in an old ginger-bread house, this Italian restaurant is perched half-way up a hill, overlooking the twinkling views of Ocho Rios. It’s full of Italian nick-nacks, antiques and colourful local wood carvings. Beautiful as you can see:

But anyway, back to the food. Lipsmackingly good. There’s a massive range of Italian treats and many have a Jamaican twist (why not try the veggie ‘Lasagne for Rastafari’ – with aki and calaloo). Feast your eyes on Red Snapper Escoveitch and Mango Cheesecake below. No more words:

Ok, a few more words actually – my only complaint would be that the night we went they played that cheesy keyboard music ‘that tourists like’ (although I have rarely met any that do). (I wondered what Keith Richards of the Rolling Stones would have made of it?!). Still, the food, the ambient soft red and yellow lighting, and THE FOOD was distraction enough and I soon forgot all about it. The evening was topped-off with a flaming rum coffee – topped with cream. And Evita’s warm hospitality as she wandered tirelessly from table to table making sure that the whole house had a tasty time.

Evita came to Jamaica from Venice – and set-up her restaurant in the hills of Ocho Rios over 20 years ago. In the thick of the tourist season you are probably best to give her a call in advance and make a reservation before you climb the hill – as I’m sure they’ll be packed to the brim for dinner. Especially if these guys are eating here again:

Weekend salsa starts at around 11.30pm, it’s open to all and in true flamboyant Mediterranean style is open to all very late. Other famous guests from abroad (there is a proud gallery on one wall) include Anthony Hopkins and Princess Margaret. But go to Evita’s above all for the star studded food.

Easy to find: Look out for this sign below, pointing up the leafy hill, as you drive along the main road through Ocho Rios.
Evita’s Telephone Number: 876-974-2333
Evita’s Email: info@evitasjamaica.com
Evita’s restaurant official website: http://www.evitasjamaica.com/

Review and Photographs by Oliver Wright / digitoli.com

Now, I am allergic to horses. It might have something to do with having been kicked-across a field by a stallion at the age of four. And subsequently breaking my right arm. Or perhaps it has something to do with falling off an old nag, only to have it temporarily paralyze my left arm by standing on my funny bone when it stood up (NOT funny, I assure you). Or maybe it’s from the 14 hour trek on a wooden saddle through the mounds of Mongolia with only salted yak butter tea to drink. Which paralyzed my butt and my gut. BUT – these horses were so adorable that I forgave them for making me sneeze and itchy-scratchy and got up close to bring you their friendly faces:

After horsing around with the camera and gee-gees I sped off in an All Terrain Vehicle (see link to blog entry on the right of this page) Jermaine however, pictured below with video camera in hand, took up the challenge and went horse-riding for the first time (I spared him my off-putting tales, instead saving them for you, lucky reader!)

After he cantered up the rocky and muddy hills and galloped along the grass the horses lept refreshingly through the sea up to their waste in water. With all riders still on their backs. Jermaine will be posting video footage some-time soon. It’s crazy crazy, so make sure you keep checking back at this site to catch it. Or better still – come to Chukka yourself. I’m sure it won’t be the first and last time that Jermaine does this trek. And it looks good enough that I think one day I might just put my sneezing behind me and go too…

Price: Around $US 75
In case you were wondering: Suitable for all ages and riding skills
Visit the Chukka website to make an advanced booking: www.chukkacaribbean.com
Or call their hotline: Mobay/Negril area Tel: (876) 953-5619 Ocho Rios area Tel: (876) 972-2506

Text by Oliver Wright. Photography by Oliver Wright. Horseriding by Jermaine Evans.

‘All terrain’ doesn’t just describe the type of four wheel drive quad bikes and ‘moon-buggies’ that this trip has on offer. A 2-3 hour adventure takes you and up to a dozen friends through the mud flats, field and jungle and way up into the hills, to terrain 2000 feet above sea level (other than the blue-mountains, this is pretty high for the island). Proving spectacular views down to the coast, you see it and ride it all. On the afternoon that we went a farmer was making a huge fire in the fields – and smoke billowed and blew, forming a blue-grey belt around the horizon of jungle.

The quad bikes are pretty easy to drive and have a suitably forgiving suspension as you bounce across rocks and down surprisingly steep hillocks. They are fast too – reaching speeds of around 60km per hour – so for petrol heads and adrenaline junkies alike, this is a trip that you will like. This wasn’t the first time that I heard the words “man, just wait until we tell the people that chose to go ‘horse riding’ instead!!! (Having said that – horse riding was to come, and like most things at Chukka, is full of surpassing surprises).

Visit the official Chukka Jamaica website, where you can also make advance bookings: Click here

Chukka resorts are all over the Carribean (Belize, Bahamas, Turks and Caicos Islands). Checkout their global website

Oh, and in case you were wondering…you won’t ever go hungry at Chukka…

Text and photography by Oliver Wright