I went to Martha Brae 21 years ago on my last visit to Jamaica. It hadn’t changed at all. Which was good. A lot of bamboo had been grown and felled though since then I am sure…nature’s quickest growing ‘tree’ the stuff is everywhere along the side of the river and the many colours of its’ bark glistened in the moist atmosphere all around.

Our raftsman, singing songs of a bygone era:

This is a very tranquil trip. You glide slowly down the river for three miles – probably taking around 45 minutes in all. The rafters sing songs, recite poetry and enchant you with old African and Jamaican fables. And if you are lucky a bright souvenir seller might jump of his bicycle and run through the trees, as I pictured below:

We caught a lift back up the river to our car with the rafters. As we bumped along in the back of their truck as it pulled the rafts behind us, I hoped that I’d be back in another 21 years. Time stands still in this place – perhaps it has something to do with the echo of the rafter’s fables as they bounce around the bamboo forrest.

Handmade rafts:

Souvenir handmade rafts:

Light fantastic:

Note: This is not a trip for the adrenalin junkies. Although it’s perfect for adrenalin junkies looking for some downtime…

…or a complimentary glass of refreshing rum punch!


For reservations…
Tel: (876) 940-6398 / 940-7018 / 952-0889
E-Mail: info@jamaicarafting.com
For a little intro to the legend of Martha Brae from their official website, click here >>>
Photogallery: Click here to see more pics

Oh what fun we had. I last kayaked at a PGL adventure course back in the UK, back in 1984. Digital camera’s didn’t exist. And of course the internet didn’t exist either. But it would seem that this childhood course had still prepared prepared me perfectly well for this assignment – and luckily i discovered that kayaking is just like riding a bike. You never forget the basics. Like rule 101 – capsizing!! Ahem:

Maybe we were lucky with our choice of guides, but it was a great pleasure to spend the afternoon with the Chukka crew once again. This might be their ‘job’, their 9-5, the daily-grind, the kayaking equivalent of a ‘rat-race’, but I think they enjoyed the trip down the river even more than we did. Deftly maneuvering their kayaks to pull and push the paddling public from drifting into the surrounding mangrove, or being sucked along the wrong rapid, these guys were always ready at the same time with a smile for the camera:

Plus they always had an encouraging woop to give us all confidence as we splashed and bashed our way down the river and the half a dozen gentle yet fun foamy ‘white water rapids’. The trip takes a couple of hours all-in, so you really get immersed in the local water flora fauna…and ceiling of the forrest. You see – halfway down the river you park your kayak for a while and head for the tree-tops. Sunlight splashes through the wet dense overgrowth of mangrove and bamboo as you climb into your canopy harness and ready yourself for the next part of the adventure – flying through the trees at a height of 50 plus feet! See below (but don’t look down when flying!)

Then it’s back, your body buzzing, into the kayaks. To top-it-all-off there’s, an optional, second stop along this safari – in the form of a highly strung rope dangling above the river banks. You grab it. They pull you back. Way back. And then you are hurled forwards through the air, over the river bank, you let go, your stomach goes WOH-AH! for a second – and then SPLASH! into the cool cool water and gentle current below.

Back at the ranch, jerk chicken, rice and peas was awaiting. So we paddled-back to tuck-in, on the way meeting a local fisherman who had just pulled his lunch from the same water we were kayaking in. I think you can see why the staff are always smiling.

Please note: I would say that prior experience of kayaking is not mandatory – there are many gentle meanders – but you should be confident in water. In fact, I found the water so luring that I capsized again and again (Disclaimer: Don’t try this at home. Or at Chukka. OK?)

Duration: 2hrs plus
Price: Around $100 US – contact for group bookings and tour discounts
Telephone for bookings: (876) 953-5619
Official Chukka Website: http://www.chukkacaribbean.com/MontegoBay/kayak.php
Bring: Swim wear, shorts, aqua shoes or strapped on sandals. Sun block, bug repellant, towels, money (souvenirs and snacks for sale on site)

Now, if you’re the type (like me) that likes to sit with nature and contemplate the grandeur of the Earth, the passing of the day that has gone and the days that are to come – there are many tranquil natural spots along the Negril coastline to enjoy this shining view. But if you are the type (like me again!) that wants to listen to some good music, surround yourself with friends and cocktails after leaping into the turquoise sea from the top of a cliff – then head to Rik’s Cafe.

Splosh:

Beware, it is extremely touristy (so much so that the tourists even ‘take-on’ the locals at cliff jumping. I watched as one tourist crowd tired of waiting for some kids to jump from a particularly high point, for the sum of two US dollars, and just jumped themselves screaming “this height is nothing!!”). It’s a little over the top (no pun intended) but the drinks are good and the food is tasty and they certainly have a very excellent view out to the sun. As well as a swimming pool. And shady gazebos. And waiter service throughout. And you can party into the night.

If I were to be mean, I’d say it’s a small slice of Cancun in Jamaica. If you know what I mean by that you might stay away. But having said that – some of my best nights have been in Cancun! You could always decide for yourself over a Red Stripe and the red sun…

Official Website: Click me!

Now I don’t want to be pinickety but I am going to be. Roaring river is hardly roaring. And that’s even after a few months of rain. I’d say it’s gushing laudably. The fast-paced flow spins through small bridges and mangroves, along fields and eventually down into the small colourfully-wooden-housed-village below. There was a deep green-blue hue to the water when I visited and this cooling sight along with the occasional spray were a refreshing treat as we walked up the hot forrest steps towards the caves. It was hard to resist the temptation to throw myself back down into the beckoning stream – especially as a few people were already sploshing around in the current. Nature lovers get ready – this is an idilic setting.

A garlic leaf. Identical in aroma to clove garlic:

OK, so the river didn’t roar – but the caves are definitely cavenous. Our friendly guide had spent the past decade or so taking people deep into the mouth of these rocks and he was well versed in explaining how boiling volcanic lava had met with the icy water to produce such intricate and windy passageways into the earth below. Our luck was in as on the day we arrived an almost omnipotent ray of sun streaked through the opening of the caves and onto the cave floor. I’ll say no more and let you see for yourselves:

I don’t know what it is about caves that bring out people’s imaginations, but in each of the caves I have been in I have always baffled to learn that “this 4000 year old stalactite in India looks like Ghandi” or that “These ancient granite formations in Nottingham resemble Robin Hood” and so on and so forth. It’s as if the natural beauty of geology and ‘the science bit’ that explains the uncanny creation of rocks and air pockets under the ground, from molten liquid at a temperature of 1000 degrees centigrade, isn’t enough. So I wasn’t surprised to see Bob Marley and The Lion of Judah appear like a mirage on almost every wall. Let me share the excitement with you:

I even started to get good at the apparition thing myself – and proudly pointed out this mangrove.

After a good half an hour under the earth I was kind-of missing the beating rays of the sun and the tropical heat above. On our way back we rushed up and down and even had to crouch limbo style (well, it is a national dance of Jamaica after all!) to get back through the passages we had blindly followed our guide along…and as we surfaced once more into the light we were welcomed with this rather apt shrine to the sun from the caged exit:

Enquiries and directions, call:(+1) 876-979-7987 OR 876-979-7988 for more information.
Please take note: There are lots of tour touts at the entrance. Make sure you get an official guide from the office.

The journey there:

Make sure you get your tickets & tour guide from the official complex…or bargain extremely hard! The official grounds look like this:

oh my oh my oh my oh my oh…. ok i won’t bore you with more words. instead i will show you what i am talking about…. courtesy of (us at go-jamaica.com) and YouTube, I bring you Kool Running’s, Negril, Westmorlands, Jamaica, The Carrabean. Ahem – listen up…Get involved:

It’s a quarter to midnight right now and we left Kool Runnings at 3pm (it opens at 11, we were the for four hours – and didn’t see more than 2/3rds of it). Why am I writing you a mathematical style travel blog? Because I need to tell you that my adrenaline is running again after just watching these videos – 8 hours after I slid. Here’s another video just for fun:

Superfast rocket – ‘Not for the weak hearted’

As the lady who showed us around the complex said “you’d never guess that this place has these kind of attractions by looking at it from the outside” (more on that later, dear, lovely, soon hopefully to be inundated marketing person). From an English perspective and the joys of Rickmansworth waterslides, when you first set eyes on the washed-out (they have hurricanes here in Jamaica don’t you know) colours of the tubes at Kool Runnings, you might be forgiven for thinking that this is just another water tube experience. But oh no! I think it’s time for another video and a few pictures:

Underwater Journalism…

Holograms are displayed in the tubes. “We come in peace. And swimsuits…”

‘Green Grotto’ Hologram Ride Video

Did I mention the food? Jamaican Jerk (of course. Ps. it was tasty with a capital T) Eskevitch (of course, Ps. it was finger licking good!) Cheeseburger (this is an international tourist resort after all, so, of course. Ps. they even do ‘take-out’ for the journey home), fresh fruit smoothies (yum schlurp yum), and smiley smiley no problem staff…. but did I mention that all of this water and laughing and scrummyness is also helping to save the local marine life?

I have been to a few of Jamaica’s best tourist attractions so far and, despite my adrenalin, the most outstanding thing about this place seems to me that it is supporting the local tourist market… most of their visitors are domestic tourists including many local Jamaican schools (many have their end of year excursions here) and, again, as our friendly guide around Kool Running’s informed us – this is great for local kids and foreign tourist children alike… everyone gets to meet each other when they are at Kool Runnings, it’s a real mix of Jamaica and the rest of the world – all be it most of the time thrown upside down or inside out!

Let’s have another photograph or two to show you what I mean….

Kool Runnings opened in February and is currently working on making sure that local Jamaican communities on the island benefit from their success. So – for those of you interested in the Jamaican bobsled team called ‘Kool Runnings’ you should soon be able to visit these picturesque houses below and discover inside artifacts from this (unlikely) world famous Olympic and hollywood (even more unlikely) bobsled team. They will also be making space for local arty exhibitions from the Negril community.

And if water’s not your thing…don’t worry – there’s also go-karting (did I mention that we only saw and took pictures of 2/3rds of this place) and an old-fashioned carousel. There’s also a number of restaurants and a cricket-themed bar on a breezy varanda, for those that like a drink rather than swimming it. A drink or two that is (It’s tellingly called ‘not-out bar’).

Young or Old, Rain or Shine – Kool Runnings should not be missed if you are in the area. Sorry, but underwater video is not strictly allowed by guests at Kool Runnings. For this privilege you should apply for a job at The Gleaner Company Click here…

Opening Hours: Tuesday- Sunday, 11am – 7 pm.
Price: Kids US$14 – Adults US$28 (for group savings & special offers click here)
Official website: http://www.koolrunnings.com
How to get there: Kool Runnings Water Park is located on Norman Manley Boulevard in Negril, Jamaica. Just across the street from Beaches Sandy Bay Resort.

Click here for directions and map…

Text, photographs and videos by Oliver Wright

Waterproof camera? Check. Life-jacket? Check. Sunglasses (for looking like Miami Vice)? Check. Safety procedure. Check? Ignition key? Check. Snorkle mask, flippers and breathing tube? WHAT?! Yes, yet again, Chukka puts the icing on the cake and adds under-water excavation to what would already be a fun-and-fuel-packed half day out. Our safari team zooped and swashplooshed (soon to be in the dictionary, or on Wikipedia if nothing else) up and down it’s own white-watery-wake, burning past tropical forrest and then way out towards the horizon.

My waterproof camera (these are great – get one by clicking here) is still a little fuzzy from the aftermath of the watery foam from the swashploosh – so please forgive the slightly blurry photo-report below while you enjoy the sights and smiles – and the Miami Vice style showing-off!

After whizzing along the coast and getting the hang of the speedboats, you are taken way out to sea for the snorkling. There is a multitude of fish, shell fish and marine vegetables to be viewed during the underwater tour but unfortunately we had to miss this part of the adventure – so we could squeeze in some all terrain vehicling and horsing around! I’d love to go back to do the whole sea safari one day – and I hope to see y’all there. On a practical note, you should aim to do a maximum of two of Chukka’s tours in one day – and make it a long one so you can enjoy their Jerk burger, chicken and pork feasts for lunch and supper.

For full information on each of the Chukka Tours please visit their official website by clicking here
All local hotels, as well as Sandals, have a Chukka rep – so rest assured you won’t be able to miss-out.
Contact info:
Phone: (876) 953-5619
Fax: (876) 953-5740
Email: montegobay@chukkacaribbean.com

Make sure you come back to www.go-jamaica.com/roundjamaica to catch Jermaine’s amazing video reviews!

Text and Photography by Oliver Wright.

Now, I am allergic to horses. It might have something to do with having been kicked-across a field by a stallion at the age of four. And subsequently breaking my right arm. Or perhaps it has something to do with falling off an old nag, only to have it temporarily paralyze my left arm by standing on my funny bone when it stood up (NOT funny, I assure you). Or maybe it’s from the 14 hour trek on a wooden saddle through the mounds of Mongolia with only salted yak butter tea to drink. Which paralyzed my butt and my gut. BUT – these horses were so adorable that I forgave them for making me sneeze and itchy-scratchy and got up close to bring you their friendly faces:

After horsing around with the camera and gee-gees I sped off in an All Terrain Vehicle (see link to blog entry on the right of this page) Jermaine however, pictured below with video camera in hand, took up the challenge and went horse-riding for the first time (I spared him my off-putting tales, instead saving them for you, lucky reader!)

After he cantered up the rocky and muddy hills and galloped along the grass the horses lept refreshingly through the sea up to their waste in water. With all riders still on their backs. Jermaine will be posting video footage some-time soon. It’s crazy crazy, so make sure you keep checking back at this site to catch it. Or better still – come to Chukka yourself. I’m sure it won’t be the first and last time that Jermaine does this trek. And it looks good enough that I think one day I might just put my sneezing behind me and go too…

Price: Around $US 75
In case you were wondering: Suitable for all ages and riding skills
Visit the Chukka website to make an advanced booking: www.chukkacaribbean.com
Or call their hotline: Mobay/Negril area Tel: (876) 953-5619 Ocho Rios area Tel: (876) 972-2506

Text by Oliver Wright. Photography by Oliver Wright. Horseriding by Jermaine Evans.

Today we had a whole raft of fun down The White River. OK, in truth we neither rafted nor saw a white river. Instead we ‘tubed’ down a crisp and fresh green river, running 27 miles from the dizzy heights of the mountains and into Ocho Rios. Our tubing trip took us through 3 miles of tranquil forrest and fields – organised by the ever so welcoming and friendly Chukka Cove White River experience team. It was so picturesque, words fail me – or perhaps that’s the 4 hour drive through potholes potholes potholes (hint: hire a 4WD when touring Jamaica!) from Goblin Hill taking it’s toll (note: it’s not a toll road yet but probably will be in 2008) – so I will leave the description up to my pictures to convey God’s light and do this place justice.

Spanish Bridge, where it all began and begins…

YouTube? WeTube!…

A whole raft of beauty…

Note – the river is usually white – the water is cleansed by the limestone that flanks the banks so that it’s crystal clarity provides a view straight through to the white limetsone. The recent rain has transformed it’s usual colour. It may sit at odds with the rivers name, but in my opinion this strange, voluminous, almost pre-historic colour found during November actually makes it the best time to visit. Chukka Cove is open rain and shine – so don’t let the odd shower put you off either.

I hope that you agree with me – that if this isn’t Jamaica’s most beautiful spot – it is certainly up in the rankings. Life jackets are provided and (if in case you are wondering) you really needn’t worry about a white-nuckle style white water rafting experience…. this is a joyous journey through Jamaica for all ages. And there’s a jolly jerk burger and beer bar at the end of the ride to kick your tastebuds back into the real world, after your whole body has been lulled into bliss traveling along in mother nature’s lap.

Chukka Cove is also the only resort in Jamaica to have received the green-seal of approval – for their eco-friendly kindness to the environment.

For more of Chukka’s great adventures: See the Chukka links in the category links on the right of this web page.
For further details, visit their official website: Click here for Ocho Rios. Click here for Montego Bay.
Or call their hotline: Mobay/Negril area Tel: (876) 953-5619 Ocho Rios area Tel: (876) 972-2506

Text and photography by Oliver Wright / www.digitoli.com